Men's hanbok is the part of Korean traditional dress that most Korean-American men encounter only briefly, at a wedding, at a parent's 60th birthday, in a single photo from a baby's dol. For a long time the assumption was that men's hanbok was a once-a-decade rental.
That assumption is shifting. A new generation of Korean and Korean-American men has started commissioning hanbok for themselves, often a modern durumagi they can wear to events more than once. Here is the lay of the land.
The pieces of a men's hanbok set
Jeogori. The short jacket. Closes at the front with a long bow tie called goreum. Modern jeogori for men often has a slimmer cut through the chest than the traditional version.
Baji. The pants. Loose at the thigh, tapered at the ankle, tied at the waist with a sash. They feel more like wide-leg drawstring pants than trousers.
Jokki. Optional vest worn over the jeogori for a more formal look. Often in a contrasting color.
Durumagi. The long overcoat. This is the piece that makes a men's hanbok set feel finished. Knee-length to mid-calf, simple cut, almost coat-like. A well-made durumagi in charcoal or navy is the men's hanbok piece you can wear most often.
Mahogu or beoseon. Socks and silk shoes for ceremonial wear. Less common in daily settings.
What to wear for the main occasions
Your own wedding. A full traditional set, usually a danryeongpo, an embroidered ceremonial robe. Rented or commissioned, but commissioned holds up better in photos.
A wedding you are attending. A simpler durumagi over a cream jeogori and baji. Charcoal, navy, or muted earth tones.
Your child's dol. A muted set so the focus stays on the baby. Many fathers wear charcoal or dusty blue.
Chuseok or Seollal at home. A modern daily men's set in linen or cotton. No vest, no overcoat needed.
A parent's 60th (hwangap) or 70th (chilsun). A formal durumagi, usually in a deeper color. The parent being honored often wears bright red or gold; you wear muted.
What about color?
Korean-American men tend to gravitate toward charcoal, navy, and earth tones. These read well in mixed company and survive multiple wearings without feeling like costume. Brighter colors, especially the deep blue and emerald common in older men's wedding hanbok, are appropriate too but read more formally.
Sizing
Men's hanbok needs chest, waist, shoulder width, sleeve length, and total length of the durumagi from the back of the neck. The sizing guide covers it. Eric is happy to walk through measurements over video if you would rather.
See men's hanbok for what is currently in the studio. Most pieces are made to order with a 3 to 4 week production lead time.
Talk to Eric
Looking for authentic hanbok for your occasion? Eric at The Korean In Me works personally with each customer, sources every piece from Seoul, and inspects it in San Mateo before it ships. Send Eric a message or text (707) 718-3579.